VDF vs. AOC wine – Discussion & conclusion
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In the midst of the 19th century, the french wine market experienced an unprecedented crisis due to the emergence of vine parasites and diseases (mildew, phylloxera,…) resulting in the destruction of vine plants. This period of turmoil was accompanied by a decline of production, greater imports of foreign wines, and rising fraud, with winegrowers often hoping to tamper their losses by falsifying wine.
To fight against this rising fraud, the french government created in 1935 , through a series of law, an institution called the National committee for registered designation of origin of wines and brandies – becoming the national institute of origin and quality, “institut national de l’origine et de la qualité” (INAO) in 2006. This organization was dedicated to the protection of registered designations of origin – appellations. In other words, it cared to protect a long lasting, and diverse winemaking heritage in each wine region and area, better known in France as terroir. The term refers to: “The ecology of a wine. The total, inter-related environment wherein a grapevine is cultivated for the purpose of making wine. Key factors include, but are not limited to, cultivar type, soil, climate, vineyard location, planting density, training system, pruning philosophy & the cultural and social milieu wherein the whole enterprise takes place.”. Let us take a look at how this regulating body structured the french wine market.
As mentioned, a framework of different levels of appellation was introduced in 1935. The highest level is that of appellation d’origine protégée (AOP) and appellation d’origine controlée (AOC). AOP is the European equivalent to the French AOC.
Both come from a well-defined – up to individual parcels – geographical area denoting terrain properties such as soil type, steepness, and sun exposure. Furthermore, they are subject to rigid product specifications: grape variety, vinification technique, quantity produced, etc… In doing so, AOC and AOP perpetuate local customs and contribute to a long lasting winemaking and cultural legacy.
Although, in the last couple of years, prices of some AOC have skyrocketed, it is arguable whether they guarantee a certain standard regardless of their tedious production constraints. In the end it all comes down to the work, vision, and choices of the winemaker.
Next in the framework we find “indications géographique protégée” (IGP), geographically protected indications. Herein, geography matters though less than for AOC as they do not follow differentiation according to soil properties (i.e., according to parcels). They can represent a large area, region, or even counties. In other words, they are less bonded to the terroir. As such, the span of tolerated grape varieties is larger than for AOC.
Finally, we enter the category of “vin de pays”, country wine, regrouping all wines produced within the country. This last category is the one we are interested in today.
Although the INAO originally intended to protect heritage and perpetuate legacies through structured classification, it created an unintended side effect: a divide between winemakers. Those who subscribed to controls and obligations versus those who did not. At first sight this seems benign. If some refused to comply with directives they would be sanctioned by a lack of recognition, thus safeguarding a certain level of standard across production. However, with the benefit of hindsight, it is unfortunately more complicated than that, especially considering that the french winemarket is nowadays close to saturated. In response, the vin de pays category was refurbished in 2009 after a European regulation – it became Vin de France (VDF), wines of france.
The aim was to promote an increasing majority of french wine that were ineligible for appellation though still of great quality and presenting a vast aromatic diversity. VDF wines may be elaborated by assembling various grape varieties from one or more regions so long as they are made by a winemaker on French soil. This supply diversity and exclusive focus on grape variety allows them to expand aroma panels and elaborate wines that previously could not be made within the French appellation system.
There is an important misconception that wines of appellation are necessarily greater wines than their VDF counterparts. Although AOP, AOC, and IGP wines are subject to more constraints that should warrant product quality, it ultimately depends on the winegrower. On the one hand, some perpetuate heritage while being at the forefront of innovation up until the limit allotted by the controlling framework. On the other hand, some have been resting on the comfort of belonging to powerful, highly sought-after appellation.
Simply put, mediocre wines can be found within the vin de France appellation just as they may also be from AOC or AOP. There is a growing number of winegrowers in France debating whether producing under a controlled appellation to the expense of freedom to innovate is the right choice. Winegrowing is a work of passion and some feel theirs drifting away as they are coerced into following well-defined practices.
At the moment, French appellations such as Pomerol, Saint-Emilion, Meursault, Pernand-Vergelesses, Hermitage, Condrieu, just to name a few, are still at the height of international demand. Thus, it is hard to tell whether VDF can, in the long-run, compete with appellations. Nevertheless one could make a few assumptions.
First, VDF are more attractive due to their lower price. Indeed, appellation wines tend to be more expensive due to the maximum production capacity set within each appellation. A bottle of Romanée Conti for instance can be sold well above € 20,000, which, regardless of its immense quality, is absurd. For that reason, many french consumers will turn towards a fine VDF bottle instead of an AOC or AOP.
Second, they are authentic in terms of the novelty they carry. Indeed, when an area belongs to a specific AOC, winemaker’s are obliged to grow certain grape varieties and viniffy their wines in a specific way for them to be rewarded an appellation. In following such rigid processes, winemakers have a smaller margin for innovation than VDF where winemakers are only bound to growing their grapes in France with French grape varieties. Some winemakers in Languedoc for instance are replanting historical grape varieties of the region that have been prohibited under the appellation system.
Alternatively, one could state that appellations warrant savoir-faire and as such are the embodiment of an authentic heritage. Indeed, a vast amount of consumers not only cherish knowing where their wine comes from, they also care about history. History of savoir-faire, one of apprenticeship passed on generation after generation, one of nobility even, given not by the price tag but by the appellation.
Lastly, VDF could greatly benefit from winemakers opting for innovation, interested in breaking the barriers of traditional winegrowing models and traditions.
Nevertheless, VDF has a long road ahead with international markets currently ruled by french AOCs and AOPs. The wine industry is a small, closed off world that necessitates an extended network and a certain resonance. So far, if one’s name was insignificant, one had little to no chance to grow. Will that continue forever? Only time will tell.
Finally, a real question remains: what would happen to French wine exports if VDF entered international markets?
On the one hand VDF could complement exports of first-entry, lower-priced wines on some markets. This could contribute to a vaster amount of winegrowers finding their share of the bargain. On the other-hand, they could hamper exports of cheaper appellations such as ones from the Loire Valley, and as such they may force, ultimately, other winemakers to exit appellation framework. Although far-fetched, this would be dramatic if it were to occur, and it could lead to a new crisis within the French wine industry – one of identity.
Kostia
